Setup Tips for Zippkits Hulls
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Stinger-
Set the centerline of the prop
shaft 1/4-1/2 inch above the bottom of the hull.
This allows the boat
to settle in the water a little, calming it down.
Set the stinger level with the
bottom of the boat.
Trim this down if the nose runs high in the straights.
Trim Tabs-
Set all tabs straight.
Adjust RH inner tab to make hull ride level (side to side, not leaning)
Make the RH outer tab the same as the inner, then adjust down to tighten right
turns.
Adjust LH inner so that hull chine walks slightly in the straights.
Adjust LH outer for best left turns.
Try different props-
We like the Zipp 470,
Prather 270
or Octura
X670 for a stock engine.
Try different props to get the handling you want.
the Easy Vee does not respond well to any 3 blade props we have tested.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coming...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spray Shield
You must use a spray
shield. Water mist will destroy the piston and cylinder quickly.
Use silicone sealant or Goop between the spray shield and carb.
Prop
Zipp 1472, Octura 1470-1475
Balance
Build the hull to plan.
Don't add any weight during assembly.
Use a large (4000 mah) 6 volt battery.
Outdrive
Set the prop shaft
angle to 0, and put the centerline 1/4 inch below the sponson bottoms.
This will require cutting the top of the transom for pushrod clearance.
Tuning
Try to fly the nose as
much as possible without blowing over.
Use stumble blocks starting 12 inches from the front of the tunnel.
If the boat resists turning (with at least 600 oz/in servos), lower the prop
slightly.
This hull is extremely sensitive to engine angle adjustments.
Use a setup board!
Driving
Start your turn at full
throttle, and let off slightly to make a sharper turn.
Use the throttle to determine the turn radius-
More throttle=less turn. Less throttle=more turn.
Practice turning!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With a stock Zenoah 260, getting to 47 or 48 mph is easy.
Getting to 54 or 55 will take a substantial amount of tuning.
Prop
Use a 6518/3 prop, and make sure it is sharp!
Pipe
Start at 13.5 inches.
Pull pipe in at 1/4 inch
increments until the engine sags coming out of turns.
Adjust in 1/8 inch increments until there is a only slight sag.
Turn fin
We recommend keeping the
turn fin at full size for racing.
Drill the rear fin
mounting hole to .172 or so.
Adjust the turn fin angle (forward or back) to get the rudder straight.
Strut
Raise the strut until the
hull just "dances" from side to side into the wind.
This is right at the danger point. Any higher and she will blow over.
Be careful with this one.
Misc.
Install the ride pads
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
JAE 12G2:
Prop
Use a Zipp 438 or 440 prop
--------------------------------------------------
JAE 21G2 and 21FE:
Prop
Use a Zipp Mod 1450 prop
--------------------------------------------------
JAE Gas:
Prop
Stock RCMK RZ254- ABC 3016-3018 2 blade
Stock Zenoah ?
Mod Zenoah ? Start with 2718/2
----------------------------------------------
All JAE Outriggers:
Turn Fin
Make absolutely certain that
the boom tubes are exactly the same length, and the sponsons have NO toe out. A
slight bit of toe in will not hurt anything, but toe out will be devastating.
Make a block about 9-1/8 inches long, and use this as a tool to make sure all
sponsons are the same distance from the tub.
Set the turn fin so that the top of the fin is parallel with the top of the tub.
Set the rudder so that the right side is parallel with the tub (slight left trim).
Set rudder throw to 10 degrees right and left. Use the least amount of throw on the servo arm, and use your radio’s ATV or end point adjustment to reduce it further. Do not exceed these throws!
Run the
boat. If it pulls to the right at full throttle, adjust the fin so that the
bottom goes forward slightly.
Measure from a convenient point like the rudder. Adjust the fin forward 1/16
inch, no more.
If the boat still pulls, move it another 1/16. Do not exceed 1/16 inch increments. The fin adjustment is very, very sensitive, and it is easy to go too far.
Keep adjusting until the pull is gone, or the sponson begins to lift in the corners. This is the limit.
Don’t try to shim the strut right or left. This does nothing.
The boat runs best with the CG about 40% forward of the rear of the ski.
The boat will not turn left. You can make left corrections, but if you push it, it will flip.
Use the largest prop you can spin. JAE’s love big props.
Do not cut the rudder. You need all you can get to control prop walk.
Make only one adjustment at a time.
Have fun!
Make one change at a time, and use a GPS for comparison.
Use an NGK spark plug.
Make sure there is nothing
touching the water that shouldn't
(paint bumps, water pickups, etc)
copyright© 2009 Zipp Manufacturing