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JAE 12G4 Outrigger Hydro
[6501]

$59.00

I built my JAE.12 for Naviga fast electric racing in the Hydro1 class,I modified it slightly by drilling another set of holes for the rear boom tubes above the originals, as high as I could so the tops of the rear sponson tubes are hard against the top sheeting, this allowed me to raise the tube running through the tub enough to slide a 280 gramm 2s 5800mAh pack underneath it whilst keeping the sponson AoA the same as it is stock, while I was at it I increased the size of the tubes so I can use 8mm carbon rod both for strength and economy (I'm not the best driver and do clip a lot of buoys so like a strong boat, and having them 8mm means that when I buy 2x 1meter rods for my JAE.21FE the leftover ends are just the right size for the .12), I also didn't install the bulkhead that separates the motor compartment from the radio compartment, I did install my motor mount close to its location though which ties the 2 sides together and keeps it as stiff
as it would be with the stock bulkhead, the mount is made from 3.5mm carbon cut rectangulat to glue too the bottom and both sides of the tub, with 3mm screwholes 19mm apart to take a 28mm brushless inrunner motor, I'm using a Leopard LBP2850/2.5D 5280KV which does not quite fit in the tub depth when the motor mount is angled for a gentle curve to the strut and as I hate "S"bends I elected to angle it anyway and get creative with the hatch.

I ordered an ABS .21FE cockpit style cowl hoping I could modify it to fit the .12, which I did pretty easily, its a lot shorter but not much narrower than the JAE.21FE so there's still space for tape at the sides, cutting it at the front was a non issue it is flat in front of the canopy so its just a case of measuring to fit, at the back however you have to cut it short of where the canopy ends leaving a raised section with a hole in the back of it that would be a pain tape up so i glued 2 sheets of HIS into the gap bringing the top back down to the level of the sides then sanded the top of it off at an angle so it sits flush all the way round, it clears the motor fine and allows more room up front for the wiring.

I painted it pearlescent british racing green top and sides with yellow stripe, underside and sponsons for visibility, installed a Hitec 5245 servo, Chinese 75mm rudder, ETTI 4mm ballraced strut, ModelMarineSupplies .130"-4mm stub-1/8"dogdrive flexshaft, its only had 3 runs so far but so far its liking a de-tongued and backcut x435 best so far (others tried were M shaped X435 and de-toungedY535) still have plenty more to try.

It went very nicely indeed off the table, nice and loose on the calm front straight and a bit sketchy from time to time on the rough back straight but I only had to lift on about half the laps so I was happy enough there, I didn't change anything between the 3 props, the turning was ideal for the oval I was running on but I was reminded that its one of the larger ones that I race at, so I will be putting some more rudder throw into it, from the inner hole on servo and outer hole on rudder arm I started out with.
Date Added: 06/20/2011 by Paul Upton-Taylor
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